|Block Cutting||A cutting method by machine
using dies to stamp out the trank and other pieces.
|Brosser||A modified whipstitch.
|Cutter||The person who cuts out the
basic glove pattern.
|Cutting||The process of cutting
leather into parts to make a glove. See also table
cutting, pattern cutting and block cutting.
|Donkey||A wooden stand to hold
gloves for sewing - see here.
|English (Bolton)||The thumb quirk is cut in
one piece with the back and the palm.
|Finger Stretchers||See bottom of this page.
|Fourchette||Fourchettes are the inside
panels on the fingers of some glove styles.
|Gaunter||Glove maker (Early English,
|Glover||A dealer of gloves (Early
|Half-Piqué||A combination of piqué
and inseam in which the back of the fingers are sewn
piqué while the palm side of the fingers have an
|Inseam||The glove is turned inside
out and seamed.
|Outseam||A general term used to
describe seams sewn on the outside of the glove. See
also overseam, whipstitch and prixseam.
|Outworkers||Those who worked at home,
not in the glove factory. Usually women and children
|Overseam||A seam in which stitches
pass over the two edges of the leather.
|Pattern Cutting||A hand cutting method
although not as accurate as table cutting.
|Piqué||Piqué is where one
edge of the leather is lapped over the other and sewn.
|Prixseam (PXM)||A variation of the outseam,
made on a special machine, in which the stitches run
|Quirks||Triangular inserts at the
base of the fingers and thumb.
|Set-In||A round thumb that is cut
in one piece and has no quirk. Used in expensive
|Sewers||Women and children who
sewed gloves, especially as a cottage industry.
|Silking||Sewing of the decorative
stitching found on the back of most gloves.
|Slitting||The act of slitting the
trank at the fingers and cutting a hole for the thumb.
|Table Cutting||A hand cutting method that
ensures a perfect fit for a specified hand size.
|Taxing||Determining the number of
gloves that can be cut from a skin. Allowances must be
made for imperfections.
|Thumb||A separate piece of
leather, the thumb is stitched to the trank. See also
set-in, English (Bolton), French and inserted keyhole.
|Trank||The palm, back and fingers
of the glove.
|Wet Glover||Leather glove maker (Early
|Whipstitch||An overseam popular in
From my collection
Spring-loaded wooden finger-stretchers for leather gloves from Hannam & Gillett of Yeovil, ironmongers of the Borough and therefore dating to the period from 1843 to 1870.
This pair of glove stretchers might have belonged to either a man or a woman. They were used to help ease tight kid gloves so that they would fit over the fingers. They also helped restore the fingers of the gloves after washing, which made them wrinkled and stiff. The user would place the pointed end of the glove stretcher into the finger of a glove and then compress the handle together so that the two ends splayed out, hence stretching the kid leather. During the 19th century the essential mark of a lady was to have small hands and feet and it was partly for this reason that close-fitting gloves were worn. A well-fitting glove was also an important complement to the tailored appearance of men's clothing. Glove stretchers therefore became a vital wardrobe accessory as they assisted the wearer in easing their gloves.